OK, we’ve thoroughly exhausted the topic of Flight of the Conchords, so I’m not even going to bring them up again. (Oops!) Here’s a backyard project in progress on a slab of concrete in Ryan Moore’s backyard (errr.. back slab?) in New Zealand. He’s built a structure out of wood and covered it with corrugated metal in preparation for a 100mm layer (You do the Mathof concrete. I can think of one problem he might have. I can’t figure out how he’s going to keep the concrete from cracking and sliding off the corrugated metal. Seems like he’s still going to need some rebar attached to the frame. Ryan has a question about bending coping, as in, how do you do it? I’ve always wondered how they get that done at skateparks. I’ve done it with electrical conduit, but I imagine it takes some heavy duty equipment to do it with something on the scale of metal skateboard coping. Ryan has some scaffolding tube that he wants to try it out on. Bonus pic after the jump.
12 comments
ehdubya
heh the freight would be kinda steep Tristen. krahamgoats trowel in place suggestion sounds simplest/best. How about some #8 wire (kiwis reckon they can fix anything with this) reinforcing tied into the base.
Tristen
What are you talking about the only coping you should use is http://www.tedderstone.com coping it’s the best precast concrete coping there is made by a skater for skating. go check it out.
krahamgoats
I agree with the concrete coping, it takes a little technique but overall has turned out cheaper, and more fun to skate. I use a 6″ to 8″ trowel made out of pvc pipe big enough for a beer can to slip through. even with a straight trowel you can form a nice curve, and I think it turns out with a way more durable finish than a form.
I would also bag the courigation and use wonder board or hardie backer.
ehdubya
You could also bend some PVC with a heat gun and use it for a coping mould.
ehdubya
The coping is usually bent with a 3 roll former, 2 one side of the tube and pressure applied with the other in the middle opposite and the tube dragged back and forth till it conforms.
If you were going to get someone to do it you’d need templates of both trannies.
You could heat it and bend it incrementally but it’s slow, expensive to heat and not as accurate.
Richard
Dunno if you can check this link to Sam Palmers (Wellington, NZ) facebook:
He made a curved box with a curving rail by cutting slits into the underside of the rail and then quote “…The method i used to creat the curve was pretty cave man steeze. I sat the pole on some wood and bashed the shit out of it with a big hammer untill the shape i deired was created.”
Or maybe you can bend some conduit into shape later on and use some 60mpa concrete to create the coping when the main pour has been completed..??
Just a couple ideas out there…
Shawn F
Is that the f-ing Bigfoot in the upper left window of that house?
Chad Balcom
poured in place coping follows any contour
http://www.skatepark.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=467
also, there’s 25.4 mm in an inch – so he’s talking 4″ roughly
the hot shit right now however, would be to cut the coping into little pieces and weld them together to achieve the radius – leaving the welds for the train track effect
Prickly Pete
On the coping, talk to the steel supplier about bending it. On the concrete slipping off the corrugated metal, screw some expanded metal lath on the corrugated.
Drunk Andy
What?! You’ve covered the topic of FOTC? Where was I? That show is funny. Remember that one where bret was working on his hair helmet? Skateboarding needs hair helmets!
Greg N
Maybe its a finished bike park.
Norm
I don’t see why he doesn’t just skate it like that.
BRRRRP! BRRRRRP! If you can ride up that, you can ride up anything!