ABEC 9? Suckers!
Recently there’s been some discussion about bearings, manufacturers, and materials. I recall when my wife was in roller derby, someone handed out a flyer explaining the ABEC rating and bearing maintenance. It stated that the ABEC rating was worthless unless you are HAULING (70 mph). Spending the money to get a high ABEC rating, which ranges from 1-9, the highest being aircraft/rocket ship precision.
This prompted me to do some research, and I found this article from Transworld called, “The ABEC Myth,” which verified that many people are buying into an unnecessary level of precision. In this article, Steve Heplar, national sales manager of Alliance Bearing Industry, says:
An ABEC 1 or 3 is all you really need on a skateboard. In skateboarding, you’re not using the precision of the bearing. Today, skateboard companies are selling bearings, mainly with ABEC 1, ABEC 3, ABEC 5, and ABEC 7 ratings. The common misconception is that the higher the ABEC rating, the better and faster the bearing. This isn’t necessarily true. The precision or the ABEC of the bearing doesn’t really matter because skateboarding is a non-precision application. …unless the skateboarder is going 70 miles an hour, which is rather unlikely.
According to this article, the most important factors in high quality skateboard bearings are the fit with the axle, and also the materials used. The reason that Powell began to manufacture skateboard specific bearings is because the testing that is conducted on the bearings is the spinning, and not the durability in situations like sliding, or high pressure on the wheel. This is where rigid components like Ceramic, Chromium Steel, etc. come in handy.
Also, Powell began to use lighter lubricant also because the speed of the bearings was not as high as machine applications, which were lubricated with a thick grease. Personally, I buy a big bottle of 3 in 1 oil from the department store for 7 bucks; it works great, and is much cheaper than Speed Cream.
So there it is… so many people are getting retailed by companies over a perceived need for precision, when in fact all a skater needs is a bearing designed for skateboarding. -Image from vxb.com
But this one goes to 11
So the Powell bearings are supposed to be “designed for skateboarding” I don’t know if I buy that.
go to portland bearing and get’em cheap!
The IASC in their advice to shops used to explain ABEC was irrelevant to skateboarding and recommended bearings from a reputable manufacturer, this was about 10 years ago before the branding onslaught.
I’ve been trying to explain this to kids for years, especially when I worked at a Vans retail store. Ungggh, “I want a pink heartagram Bam deck, and pink wheels, and pink risers, and pink trucks, and pink ABEC 9 bearings…….” Skateboarding is dead. Long live skateboarding.
i read the abec myth in tws business, 6 years ago.
i also make poopie and wipe, all on by myself.
Powell was the first to really examine the materials that make a good bearing, but a bearing is just a mass produced industrial tool. It is ridiculous to pay $15 for a set of Reds, when you can pay well under 10 by going straight to the source.
$30-40 for a set of ceramics that would probably last a lifetime? Better than paying $100 for a set of Bones Swiss ceramics.
I don’t need to pay for packaging. Those marketing people…
Jakeandannoy- I know, it’s old news. It has been this way for a long time. Just trying to help people save a couple of bucks, y’know.
Tobin’s right. Buy them from the source, not the skateshop.
Some shops aren’t playing the game
http://www.gowindholz.net/servlet/the-35811/NMB-BEARING-LABYRINTH-7/Detail
I found this covered it well…
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=932
but there are still some bearing companies that sell abec 5′s or 7′s that barely last one week , if your lucky. so roll what’s cheap yet reliable.
chinese manus will stamp anything on the bearing covers. I also got into a heated argument with some roller-derby douchebag as well.
“portland bearing”,hmm? Heath im gunna try it.
the last time i was told i didnt need to buy my bearings in a skateshop for $25, it was by my dad.
and he suggested a hardware store.
and it was an epic fail. and i broke my board out of insolence and my mom and stepdad gave me an advance on my weekly allowance to buy a new one.
but 2008 was a long time ago and ive grown up alot so after maturing over the years ive learned to listen to people. some people. not the guy at the rest stop bathroom who asked me to hold “something” for him.
Yes, Bobcat, they will. Copyright laws are loose in China, and they can jerry-rig all sorts of factory goods. Some good some bad. Know the ingredients of what your roll.
All I know is that RocknRon’s Ballistech Missiles w/Bones STF whells is fast as fuck!
STF Wheels
The Ballistech Missiles have scared me on my Powell Bombers as well.
…in a good way!
My father, a metallurgist and materials science professor, once pointed out that precision bearings are intended for use in a dust and moisture free environment…he suggested that if I didn’t want to clean and re-lube them frequently, it made more sense to by the cheaper ones.
I will confess I’m not one of the faster skaters I know, but I blame my poor technique and general wussiness, not my Bones Swiss.
We’re acknowledging that ABEC ratings are not relevant to skateboarding (or roller derby…), but there do seem to be differences between bearings that seem to make some faster than others. What is the reason for this, and how should bearings be tested to provide relevant ratings to skaters (and roller derby babes, like Heath’s wife)? Internal friction? Lubrication? (watch it) Seal quality? Or…are there no actual speed differences between bearings and it’s all about durability? Heath? Heath’s wife?
Mac- It’s probably internal friction if you feel like it’s going slow. I’ve had bearings that seemed sluggish, so I cleaned out the industrial goo that they were packed in and they rolled fine. It could also be bent up, crappy material in the bearing.
I will say that some bearings do seem to roll LONGER; probably just a better design. Check EBAY auctions; you can snag a set of decent ceramics for less than $30 if you commute on your board. For normal skating situations there’s no reason to pay more than $3-10 for a set. Just make sure that you compare some of the materials and buy from a reputable company.
On a side note… sorry if I’m sounding like something you’ve heard a million times… if I go to dusty, sandy, gnarly places like indoor skateparks or street spots, I make it a point to spin my wheels to see if I hear something restricting the movement. Then I clean them, usually once every 3-6 months, and put a few drops of 3-in-one oil (same $7 bottle I’ve had for 5 years).
Here are links to how to disassemble and clean your bearings:
You dumb bastards my Abec system is the best thing since sliced bread. You idiots do not even use the right size axle for a 608 bearing and most of you do not use spacers.
Grandpa Abec
Thanks for chiming in, Jeb (even though you do seem old, bitter, and crotchety). Maybe you could answer a couple of questions? Am I safe in assuming that the axle size we use is too small? This would contribute to premature bearing wear, right? I do use spacers, but do I need them with cored wheels? Thanks, and your ABEC system works great for motors and power tools and stuff like that. Maybe the History Channel will do a show about you someday.
Having wrapped very thin shimming steel 355 degrees around my axle to get the perfect fit for a time, I can assure you that our “inadequate” axles AREN’t the wrong size, and that “precision” trucks are inferior for coping skating. Getting a counterbore to face your hangers, though, does make bearings run truer, without giving up the slight bit of slop that we all (mostly unknowingly) love. And, okay, Silicon Nitride balls are easier to get rolling (acceleration) than steel balls, because steel balls are heavier and slightly mushier. But though the weight’s probably pretty uniform, the hardness and uniform strength of SiN varies quite a bit with which (of 3) manufacturing processes are used, as does the cost… so it’s not necessarily safe to assume that thirty dollar SiN-balled bearings are going to function, and keep functioning, as well as an expensive set… since they’re not even theoretically the same material, necessarily, just the same composition. And don’t even bother with zirconia oxide balls (the white ones); those I can testify suck.
Excuse my grammar; “is” used.
or “[depending on] which… [is] used]”. Nerd out
Oh damn, one too many “]”. But getting back on track (skating… have I heard of it?), one of the best things I’ve seen in skating was some kid in his twenties who showed up at a crowded park and just destroyed it in the gayest costume imaginable. (I think it was the back of his polka-dot short shorts that had “Skate Nerd” printed on them… some article did.) I’m sure it was better than the movie “Bruno” is, and free. Though maybe not as good as the radio ad for some new migraine medication that testifies: “MyCranium changed my life…”
Awesome. This is like Concrete Disciples circa 2002.
^beat me to it.^
So ND, what would you recommend? And where could you get it the cheapest?
In response to the “counterbore” thing. Please elaborate… are you talking about washers or something similar?
just get rockin rons if you can, they are terrific and last forever.
Pretty sure this is your counterbore, but double check before pulling the trigger for $44.00
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000101345160
Cored wheels would not make a difference, because the spacer is supposed to push out at the inner race. Actually unless the spacer sticks out a touch on each side of the wheel is will not make a difference, if the spacers rattle around inside your wheels they are worthless. It seems that spacers should come with your wheels not with the bearings as they used to.
Old, bitter, and crotchety out
It’s all about the shields and how the balls are held in. a lot of company’s use shitty bearings you can just feel by spinning them in your hand. Just find what you like and stick with them. As for abec kids need something to hang there hat on. it’s just the way people are something has to be better, and they want to pay for it.
My favorite bearings are any kind you don’t have to talk about for more than two minutes :)
Heath, the counterbore I have is part number 08790644, $46 from MSC, worth it if you have a bunch of trucks (and actually kinda fun to use). Still use speedrings, of course; the facing of the hanger just ensures that the inner washer will be perpendicular to the axle.
Sped up, nerd out